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Natas
Pastries
Nearly four years ago,
Fatima Marques, a native of Lisbon,
Portugal, searched Los Angeles for
pasteis de nata, the most famous of
Portuguese pastries. She discovered a void
in the city’s culinary landscape and true
inspiration for a specialty pastry shop.
“Pasteis de nata have
been reproduced all over the world from
Japan to New York. But in Los Angeles, there
was not a single place to find them.” Fatima
explained. |
On June 10, 2005, Fatima
celebrated the grand opening of Natas
Pastries, the only Portuguese bakery in
L.A. Named after its signature pastry, the
shop has quickly become the talk of the Los
Angeles Portuguese community and the latest
neighborhood favorite on Ventura Blvd.
For customers who are new to
Portuguese pastries, the shop’s sample tray
provides a delicious introduction. “Once our
customers taste the natas, they know
they’ve never had anything like it.” Fatima
said. “Each nata has an exceptionally
crisp puff pastry shell that is perfectly
balanced by custard filling resembling
crème brûlée. You’ve got the yin and the
yang.”
Early each morning, Fatima
and
European Executive Pasty Chef Michel Bal make an array
of pastries by hand, using the highest
quality European ingredients. By 7 a.m. the
pastry cases are fully stocked with
traditional Portuguese favorites, including
natas, queijadas, pasteis de coco, bolas
de Berlin, and Portuguese sweet bread,
and more contemporary European pastries such
as strudels, Napoleons, éclairs and
petit fours.
Fatima and her husband Tyler
spent more than seven months transforming a
former insurance office next to the famed
Casa Vega restaurant into an authentic,
walk-in Portuguese bakery similar to the
shops she frequented during her childhood.
She strived to attract customers to Natas
Pastries for the whole European experience.
For the shop’s interior,
Fatima found inspiration in the blue and
white glazed tiles characteristic of
Portugal and the rich, dark woods found in
European cafes. Outside, there are tables,
chairs and umbrellas for customers to enjoy
as they linger over dark Italian coffee and
rich hot chocolate.
For the Portuguese of the
greater Los Angeles area, a trip to Natas
Pastries is like a homecoming. “It’s an
honor for the Portuguese to have their own
bakery here in LA,” said Fatima, who has
found great motivation in the positive
feedback she has received from the
community. “The natas aren’t easy to
make and the Portuguese people know it.”
Prior to signing a lease and
fully committing to bakery ownership, Fatima
spent three years perfecting the art of the
Portuguese pastry. She left behind a career
in marketing and music and devoted herself
to her newly found passion.
“I grew up eating natas
and knew exactly how they should taste. My
research was all about replicating the
traditional baking process that originated
in the 17th Century in my
hometown. Anyone can go online and get a
recipe, but I had to go home and learn the
time-honored methods. Only then could I
truly claim to be reproducing the real
pastel de nata,” Fatima said.
Once Fatima mastered the
technique, her next task was to find the
right equipment, including an original
Portuguese oven and imported pastry molds.
With the trials of opening a
business behind her, Fatima is optimistic
about the future. She is adding wholesale
accounts to her quickly growing retail
business and customers are already inquiring
about savory Portuguese dishes beyond
pastries. For now, Fatima takes sheer
pleasure in sharing natas, her
favorite childhood treat, with her
customers. Fatima concluded, “The smiles I
see on their faces are truly rewarding.” |